True Summer colours are not as desaturated as Soft Summer colours. But True Summer colours are lighter and gentler.Ĭompared to Light Summer, the colours are cooler, more muted and slightly darker.Ĭompared to Soft Summer, the colours are somewhat brighter, cooler and slightly lighter. With its opposite season True Winter, the colour palette shares the same cool temperature. True Summer sits between Light Summer and Soft Summer on the seasonal flow chart. They are dusky and greyish rather than saturated and bright. The colours are medium in chroma and overall lean more towards the muted end of the scale. This is because True Summer cannot handle too much contrast. Overall, though, more colours are medium or lighter rather than truly dark. The colour palette ranges from light grey to dark brown and is so quite broad. Instead, you will find lots of blues, turquoises and greys, which are naturally cool. There are very few yellow shades on the palette, and even those have a heavy tint of blue to cool them. That means they contain blue undertones but no yellow ones. That worked for me because in that step this was the only thing that could make my life easier.In line with True Summer’s primary colour aspect, the colours sit on the coolest end of the hue scale. I wrapped around the supporting rings with the flexible cardboard and I marked the length I wanted with a pencil. I just knew I want the width to be 10cm so I cut it that way and let the length longer. I didn't do any calculations to find out the dimensions of the piece of cardboard I needed for the large-moving tube. Now, if you had time, things would be easier, but they weren't for me. I glues 4 rings to support the large, moving tube, 1 ring to adjust it on the back part of the large tube and 1 to adjust it on the eyepiece and the front part of the large tube. The inner radius of the ring is the outer radius of the cardboard tube ( R) and the outer radius of the ring is the the outer radius of the tube plus 0.5cm ( R'). So, I cut 6 cardboard rings out of the cereals box. After I glued all the things in place I thought that I could do the same, easier using pieced of polystyrene. It is a little bit ugly and complex, but it worked. As I told you in the beginning of this Instructable I had to hurry and think quick, so I ended up with this. I want to make a moving-rolling part on my kaleidoscope, that will be larger than the main tube and will need support, so it won't bend. (in my case I calculated 3.7cm and I subtract 0.2cm, about the thickness of the mirror, so I ended up with a decision of 15.3cm x 3.5cm mirror pieces). Just because your mirror has a thickness and you want your 3-mirror system to fit in the tube, you might cut your pieces slightly shorter than what you calculated. NOT YET!!! There is a little thing you have to decide about this. Measure the distance between two of them and Voila!! you have found the width of your mirror pieces. (See pictures) Once you finished the circle process you will notice three points that are forming an equilateral triangle. Draw two more circles the centers of which will now be the points that the first and the second circles intersect. Pick up the compasses and draw another circle, the center of which will be in the perimeter of the first circle. Take the pair of compasses and measure the opening to be equal to the inner (r) radius, then draw a circle. To calculate the dimensions of the mirror pieces you will need the inner (r) radius, a pair of compasses, a piece of paper and a ruler. In the future steps you'll need both inner r (from the center to the inner edge of the tube) and outer R (from the center to the outer edge of the tube) radius. If you measure the diameter of the tube and then divide it by 2 you will find the radius. mirror pieces dimensions (mine 15.3cm x 3.5cm).your Kaleidoscope length (mine 18cm, Tube + End Cap = 17cm +1cm).mirror length/width/thickness (mine 25cm x 15.3cm x 0.25cm).cardboard tube diameter so you can find the circle radius (mine inner r = 2.15cm, outer R = 2.3cm).
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